CARBON MONOXIDE (CO) DETECTORS
Carver has installed CO detectors on your yacht. Have these detectors professionally calibrated at regular intervals.
Always activate the CO detectors when the boat's engines or generator are running.
BATTERIES
Never allow the boat's batteries to become completely discharged. Completely discharging a battery can damage it to the point that it can no longer be recharged.
The battery charger should always be operating when your boat is connected to shore power. If you leave your boat for an extended period of time and the boat is not connected to shore power, turn all battery master disconnect switches to the OFF position.
Keep the batteries fully charged. Batteries that are kept fully or near fully charged last longer than batteries stored with a partial charge.
Inspect the batteries at least once every thirty (30) days for corrosion, loose wiring, dirt, etc.
Remove the batteries from the boat during periods of extended storage in freezing climate areas. Avoid storing the batteries in a humid location.
SHORE POWER
Remove all perishables from your refrigerator if you leave your boat for more than forty-eight (48) hours. The shore power supply to your refrigerator may be interrupted and your food may spoil.
NOTE: The reason you are switching off all of the main circuit breakers before you connect to the shore power, is to prevent arching and burning of the shore cord receptacles, which will occur if there is a current demand during this process. Also, it will protect electrical equipment on board from rapid ON/OFF current connections which occur during the connection process.
BONDING SYSTEM
Monitor the condition of your boat's zinc anodes. Replace the zinc anodes when they have deteriorated to 50% of their original size. Do not allow the zinc anodes to completely deteriorate.
WATER SYSTEM
If your boat will be left unattended for at least a few days, switch the Pressure Water Pump circuit breaker OFF. If this breaker is left on, pressure in the fresh water system may fall and cause the water pressure pump to engage. If this happens frequently, it could discharge your batteries.
BILGE SYSTEM
A small amount of water always collects in your boat's bilge. This water is usually not enough to activate the automatic switch. While underway and on plane, use the helm switches to manually turn the bilge pumps on and let them run for 30 seconds to a minute. When your boat is on plane, water in the bilge flows to the stern, where the aft bilge pump is located. The midships bilge pumps are near the lowest point in the hull when the boat is at rest.
FUEL SYSTEM
Over time, water can condense inside the fuel tanks, especially in areas with high humidity. This water can then react with the fuel in the tanks to create a mixture that can corrode the tanks from the inside. To avoid this:
1. Use the fuel in the fuel tanks as often and as completely as possible.
2. Keep the tanks full of fuel when the boat is stored and when it is used infrequently.
3. Do not put alcohol-based fuels in the tanks.
4. Check the Racor fuel filter bowls for water accumulation on a regular basis.
EXTERIOR MAINTENANCE
The following paragraphs explain how to maintain the various materials present outside your yacht's cabin to help keep the yacht looking new.
FIBERGLASS SURFACES
The exterior fiberglass surfaces of your yacht are coated with a protective layer of gelcoat. Gelcoat forms a hard, smooth and durable surface. It does, however, contain microscopic pores that, over time, can collect dirt and discolor if the gelcoat is not kept clean.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE ABRASIVE CLEANERS WHEN WASHING YOUR YACHT. ABRASIVE CLEANERS SCRATCH AND DULL THE GELCOAT.
Wash the yacht with fresh water after each outing to help keep the gelcoat clean. If you operate your yacht in salt water, wash it at least once every week, even if it hasn't been used since the last washing. Periodically wash the yacht with a solution of fresh water and mild soap. Use a sponge to wash smooth surfaces and a stiff nylon or natural bristle brush to wash nonskid surfaces.
WARNING: DO NOT WAX THE NONSKID SURFACES. WAXING THEM MAKES THEM SLIPPERY AND DANGEROUS TO WALK ON.
Was all non-thread areas at least once a season. Use a high quality, non yellowing, marine wax. Waxing your yacht provides a shiny surface and seals the pores in the gelcoat, making it easier to keep clean.
CAUTION: THE CONTINUED AND FREQUENT USE OF ABRASIVE POLISHING COMPOUNDS EVENTUALLY ERODES THE GELCOAT.
Gelcoat eventually dulls with age, much like the paint on your car. When it does this, you can restore the gelcoat's luster using an electric buffer and a very fine grade polishing compound. Ask your Carver Dealer what brand and grade of polish to use.
Stress cracks are common on all fiberglass yachts. In the majority of instances these cracks are cosmetic and limited to the gelcoat surface only. Gelcoat stress cracks are rarely an indication of structural problems. If you discover stress cracks in your yacht contact your Carver Dealer.
NOTE: The repair of cosmetic (non-structural) gelcoat stress cracks is not included under the terms of the Carver Limited Warranty.
HULL BOTTOM
Inspect the hull bottom once a year. If you see gelcoat showing through the bottom paint, repaint the hull. Be sure to use a paint that is compatible with the factory-applied paint. Also make sure the paint is formulated for the type of water you operate the yacht in. See your Carver Dealer for assistance in selecting an appropriate bottom paint.
UNDERWATER METAL COMPONENTS
The underwater metal components, including the shafts, struts, propellers, trim tabs and thru-hull fittings, were NOT primed or painted at the factory. You are responsible for priming and painting all of the underwater metal components.
CAULKING AND SEALANTS
Deck fittings, rail bases, window and all underwater fittings have been sealed with the finest quality sealants. These sealants, however, do not last indefinitely. The working action of the yacht and the expansion and contraction caused by variations in outside temperature eventually break down the sealant.
Fittings that have begun to leak must be resealed. Remove the fitting and clean the old sealant from both mating surfaces. Reseal the fitting using the sealant recommended by your Carver Dealer.
STAINLESS STEEL RAIL AND HARDWARE
Stainless steel is not rust-resistant nor is it stain-resistant. When left in contact with the marine environment it does rust and corrode. Proper care helps keep the stainless fittings on your yacht looking bright and shiny.
Clean the stainless steel rails and fittings after each outing with either soap and water or glass cleaner. If you operate your yacht in salt water, clean the rails and fittings at least once every week, even if the yacht hasn't been used since the last cleaning.
MECHANICAL SYSTEMS
ENGINES/GENERATORS
At least once every 30 days, close the seawater seacocks, then open and clean the strainers.
THRU-HULL VALVES
Inspect the thru-hull valves on a monthly basis.
PROPS
Inspect your props often.
Have the propellers balanced by an established propeller repair shop at least once a year.
FRESH WATER SYSTEM
Flush and sanitize the fresh water system at least once every season.
WATER TAPS
Periodically remove and clean the filter screens from the sinks' water taps.
SUMP
Clean the sump and sump filter frequently.
BILGE SYSTEM
Keeping the bilges clean is important. A dirty bilge leads to clogged bilge pumps and unpleasant odors in the cabin. Keeping the bilges dry helps reduce moisture in the cabin.
Periodically inspect and clean each bilge pump's strainer.
Frequently check the operation of each bilge pump float switch to ensure that it is operating properly.
Clean the bilge pumps twice a season by wiping any dirt or oil from their exterior surfaces.
Remove any oil, dirt or debris from the bilges.
SANITATION SYSTEM
Your yacht's sanitation system is not like the toilet and sewer in a home.
